Areas in Detail -

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N Spain Quiet, unspoilt cruising around N Spain

Balearics The busy area of Mallorca, Minorca, Ibiza and the sandy bays of Formentera

Corsica & Sardinia Brilliant white undeveloped beaches and coves, stunning scenery.

Sicily & Malta Unique; bubbling volcanoes and ancient sites

Greece The stunning variety of the many Greek cruising areas

SW Peloponese Every harbour, cove and anchorage. Good bars, too.

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Copyright Jim Baerselman.

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Areas in Detail

Balearics

These are well developed holiday islands with a lot of (fairly light wind) summer cruising and some lovely anchorages. The high season is dense with yachts, when marinas are very expensive, berths in short supply, and sheltered anchorages crowded. There is good yacht support in Palma, and many places are suitable for wintering. Winter cruising is feasible, though Minorca suffers a lot from very strong winter northerly winds.

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When to go & Sailing Conditions

This is holiday country, geared to serve visitors from throughout Europe (including Spain!), with many expatriates in residence. There's a big difference between summer and winter facilities in all except the principal towns. There are frequent cheap flights from all islands to most European destinations all summer, and year round from Mallorca.

Cruising Season. The comfortable summer cruising season (apart from the overcrowding) runs from late May to late September, Unsettled weather (significant clouds around the place) occasionally visits, bringing unpredictable winds. Also, be aware of the northerly winds, the NW Tramontana and the NE Mistral, when the otherwise lighter winds of settled summer weather may become very lively. In Mallorca, sea breezes may also liven things up in, blowing straight into the calas of an afternoon. If you're on passage, two weeks will skim the area, while you could easily occupy four weeks for a more thorough job.

Winter. October to April can offer pleasant cruising in light winds during settled weather, especially in the SW around Ibiza. However, unsettled weather is frequent, sometimes including brief periods of very fierce wind. The mistral and tramontana winds are also a frequent winter threat, bringing northerly swell and big winds out of a clear sky, often for days at a time. NW of Minorca can then be dangerous, suffering periods of F9 or more a few times each year, and big swells spread around many anchorages. If you allow for these threats, winter cruising can be rewarding.

Marinas and Anchorages. Early July to late August sees the big influx of visiting yachts (many chartered) from Italy and France. Marina vacancies fill by early afternoon, and premium prices (€40 to € 70 for a 10m yacht per day) are charged. However, the local government run town quays (muelles de transito) are good value, and can be booked ahead through their site here. This site has good maps locating their yacht facilities. If you need to leave your yacht to return home for a week or three, consider a haul out. Sometimes it's cheaper!. Luckily, throughout the islands there are many anchorages, some of which are superb and rarely overcrowded.

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Comparing the Islands:

Ibiza - Formentera

The Towns. Ibiza is the summertime hedonistic capital of Europe. San Antoni has a very good anchorage, but is an appalling testament to package holiday excesses ashore, where it competes with Ibiza town to offer the more outrageous scene. Both are fascinating to gawp at and obviously great (but expensive) fun for the participants. Don't let this put you off a visit ashore to see the Dalt Villa (7/10) a walled citadel of narrow alleys in Ibiza town, a world heritage site. Best seen out of season to avoid the crowds.

The Beaches and Anchorages. Both islands (especially Formentera, very quiet) have a wonderful range of brilliant white beaches (8/10), probably the best in the west Mediterranean. Nudists decorate some. Most make good anchorages, if rather open, so check the swell direction first. The east and south coasts of Ibiza have many tiny, well sheltered, narrow calas (coves) to anchor in, most with quiet beaches at their head. Cala Llonga on the east coast and Porroig (Port Roig) on the south coast are worth seeking out. One 'must visit' anchorage is Puerto El Espalmador (9/10). Large and well sheltered, it lies between Ibiza and Formentera. The turquoise sea has a Caribbean feel . . . quite dream like.

Mallorca

Palma (7/10). Palma is a surprise, completely different from the rather gross holiday developments to it's west. Pass by the tourist oriented cafes and restaurants along the harbour front and around Placa Llotja (an area west of the cathedral) and enter the old city just north of the cathedral. Once through the old city walls you're in the maze of streets which make up a lively and attractive Spanish city. Good value tapas bars and restaurants are scattered around the side streets just west of Paseo de Born, the wide, tree lined street running north out of the harbour. For tapas, try Bar Bosch, at the north end on Placa Joan Carles. Very popular, it's good value, but a bit hectic at times. One of the most extra-ordinary bars I have ever seen is Abaco. This beautiful old house lies at the junction of Apuntador and San Joan, about 200m inland from the harbour front, just N of Placa Llotja. But inside! It's like a scene from some orgy of ancient history, or perhaps an OTT Hollywood idea of one. Fruit and flowers tumble down stairways, great comfy old sofas are scattered around, open mezzanine and upper floors are decorated with more greenery than you'd find in a tropical forest. Music is discreet, even classy. Drinks are pricy - starting at €6 - but no one pushes you to buy. It's worth starting an evening here, just for the spectacle.

Palma Locality - Marinas and Anchorages (4/10) - useful as a cheaper way to reach Palma. There's a choice of marinas in town and more to the west. But central berths are expensive, and often not available in season. There are anchorages within range (Cala Portals, or outside the marina of Puerto Portals, and further afield at Palma Nova). If you wish to winter here, there's usually more space afloat than ashore - but either way, book months ahead. Andraitx to the SW, with marina, anchorage and a pleasantly quiet inland town, is a favoured alternative to Palma for wintering.

NW Coast (2/10) The NW coast is beautiful and mountainous, with just one port of call - Soller. On passage, many cruisers avoid this coast, since the south east coast has much more to offer.

N Coast (5/10) In the north corner is Puerto Pollensa - a low-key touristy town, a useful stop with marina, shopping, free moorings and plenty of anchorages nearby. Alcudia, in the next bay east, also has a well sheltered marina, but it's more tourist developed with fewer nearby sheltered anchorages.

SE Coast (6/10) The south east coast is drilled with calas (coves), the flooded river valleys of antiquity. Most are headed with little sandy beaches, many contain small marinas. Porto Colom is large and particularly well sheltered, with good anchoring space, and moorings which are sometimes used for wintering afloat. Sadly, many calas are also over-looked with tourist development. But holding is good and they're reasonably sheltered, though you must watch out for the afternoon sea breezes, when a F4 or F5 into the hole can make things pretty uncomfortable. Even so, a potter along this coast to find the quieter calas is very rewarding. If you stop at Porto Cristo and you'd like a little touristy diversion (we're suckers for these things) try a guided tour around the Coves del Drac (Dragon's Caves) where classical musicians punting around an underground lake will entertain you. Really kitsch.

Cabrera (8/10). This beautiful archipelago is a 'must see' for anyone interested in wild life (not the Ibiza definition). About 10nm south of Mallorca's southern tip, Cabrera has been biologically isolated from the rest of the Balearics, and has developed its own unique range of flora and fauna. It's now designated a protected marine park. Park staff arrange walks and provide informative leaflets. For a taste of what's to be seen, go to http://www.parquesnaturales.com/en/parquesnacionales/acabrera.asp. Boat visitors are welcome. Some 50 moorings have been laid (anchoring is forbidden) but these must be reserved in advance from the Park Office in Palma, which will give you a reservation reference. This will be checked by park staff on your arrival. This little step of bureaucracy is worth every second of your effort.

Minorca

Minorca has been developed more discreetly than the other islands; everything is on a smaller scale.

Mahon (6/10), the capital, is in a large natural harbour with several anchorages, quaysides, pontoons and marinas for the visitor. Some spots are noisy in season. It's a pleasant town, though the many cafes and restaurants along the quaysides (where the ferries dock) cater for tourist tastes. It took us time to find a more Spanish flavour. L'Arpo at 124 Moll de Levant (about 500m E of the ferry dock, where the quay bends) is a good fish restaurant with a fine paella. And we liked the Mirador Cafe, on Placa Espanya (up the broad steps from the quayside) for its terrace views around the harbour and quiet background jazz. If you've never drunk any gin except Gordon's, now's your chance to discover the real thing. Better still, take a trip around the Xoriguer Gin Distillery for a more wide ranging tasting. Just west of the ferry quay. I'm now an addict.

Ciutadella (8/10), the original capital of the island, is a beautiful old town, thick with aristocratic mansions from another era. Small squares replete with pavement cafes cater mainly for Spanish tastes. The narrow cobbled streets don't do high heels. It's not easy to find a berth in the long, narrow, crowded harbour, and ferry wash makes rafting up a recipe for damage. Additionally, the inlet shape amplifies the effect of any 'seiches' (short duration changes of sea level) which may occur, so it's prudent to moor with at least a metre spare below your keel. So, all in all, rather than berth in the harbour, be prepared to travel by land from some more secure berth. Do it. It's worth the effort.

Fornells (6/10). Fornells is a large, very well sheltered bay on the north coast, which has an extensive area prohibited for anchoring, but some excellent moorings (free in 2007). It's claim to fame lies within the village on the west side of the entrance, a cluster of rather expensive but very good seafood restaurants. Top of the heap is 'Es Pla', favoured by royalty, judging by the pictures inside. Others are more reasonable in price. You'll need to book in many. Special dishes are 'llagosta' (lobster stew) and paella (both with big prices!), but many other more reasonably priced seafood options are available. Bob Jelfs runs his shore based sailing and windsurf centre, 'Minorca Sailing', from the more southern part of the bay.

The Calas (7/10). Along the south coast there's a string of delightful narrow inlets with tiny sandy beaches, lovely anchorages. Many of them (Cala Turqueta at the western end is pick of the bunch) have no development at all. Others, with varying levels of development, may have the inland ends buoyed off for swimmers in the summer.